Stained Glass City / September 21, 2022 by Sasha Ward

Troyes Cathedral. Left and centre, three tiers of windows around the nave. Right, rose window in south transept.

Troyes, capital of the Aube département, calls itself the stained glass city. ‘The saying goes that France is home to 80% of the world’s stained glass windows, that 80% of French stained glass windows are located north of the Loire, that 80% of the stained glass windows north of the Loire are in the Champagne region, and that 80% of the stained glass windows in the Champagne region are in the Aube département ‘ - this from the city’s tourist web site. The opening of Troyes’ stained glass museum is imminent, meanwhile a wonderful map and series of leaflets leads you from cathedral to basilica to church after church, some of them (mercifully) locked as you begin to overdose on the best medieval and renaissance stained glass you could hope for.

After all the modern stained glass we’d been seeing, the windows in the Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul in Troyes were a reminder of another side of stained glass - the one where you stand in wonder at the intricacy of the pattern making and then stay for hours finding the stories, the characters and the landscapes in the windows.

Troyes Cathedral. Left, the south side of the nave. Right, windows in the chapels on the south side of the nave.

Forgetting to take my proper camera (apologies for mentioning this again!) gave me more time to stand and stare and to focus on pattern rather than on finding favourite details. I loved looking at the rows of striped leading filled with stories and parables high up on the south side of the nave (above left) and then looking down to the chapels at ground level with a whole variety of rich styles and colours in windows made from the 13th to 19th centuries. The most useful leaflet imaginable tells you the date, the makers’ names when known and the date of restoration of each window. Best of all was a window in the chapel of the Immaculate Conception made in 1524 in the workshop of Jean Soudain (below right).

Troyes Cathedral. Left and centre, C13th glass in chapels around the apse. Right, window of the Immaculate Conception.

You get a more concise stained glass experience inside the Basilica of St Urban, a massive but delicate gothic church a short walk away from the cathedral. This church was begun in 1262 at the expense of Pope Urban IV, a native of Troyes. The stained glass windows are from the late thirteenth century, they soar above the alter, creating a luminous area that shines right out of the church (above). This effect comes not only from the height of the bands of windows, but also from the large amount of pale grisaille glass that is used around the strip of bright figures. The ornaments in the borders are simple and heraldic, with flashes of rainbow chevrons that contrast with foliage patterns on the white glass ground. Another set of windows (below right) has an all over circular pattern, stronger than the little figurative scenes they encircle. All these windows with their jazzy details are seen through an interior screen of empty stone windows that contribute to the effect of a delicate cage.

Church of St Madeleine, Troyes. Centre and right, creation window (c.1500).

The map took us through medieval streets to St Madeleine, a church with a claim to being the oldest and most beautiful in the city. The atmosphere is quite different, intimate and rich with an astonishing carved stone rood screen right across the centre of the space and a series of incredibly fine windows in the apse. It’s great to be able to get close to these and to read the stories, strip cartoon style, of the creation (above right), the lives of Saints Eloi and Louis, The Passion of Christ (below right), and a wonderfully composed and painted Jesse’s Tree (below) in a design that scrolls across the mullions and leading stripes. Seeing this series side by side shows up the stylistic differences, some with captions under each picture and some with words floating on banners. The designs are organised around elaborate top tracery, different in each one and daringly complicated with figures using up every scrap of glass as they tell the story right to the top of each window.

Windows in the church of St Madeleine, Troyes. Centre, Jesse’s Tree (c.1500). Right, The Passion of Christ (c.1490).

Two Windows at Worcester Cathedral / January 2, 2020 by Sasha Ward

The great west window: from the quire, top of left hand lights, detail from first (left) light

The west window at Worcester Cathedral was designed by George Gilbert Scott in 1875 during his restoration of the cathedral and made by Hardmans. Its subject is The Creation, with the story of Adam and Eve in the central lights. It has been recently restored and and is looking wonderful and clean, with rich colour and detail flowing across the eight vertical window lights in a pattern of circles.

Zooming in on the window in the photos above and below below, I start by appreciating the overall composition, then find my particular favourite bits which all happen to be weather related. There are the two dramatic rainbow circles (above centre), the top one ringed by angels holding rainbow globes, the bottom one ringed by another circle of red and white glass pieces falling as ice, snow, rain and hail.

Bottom of left hand lights, detail from second light

Detail from seventh light, bottom of right hand lights

The right hand side of the window features the animal kingdom and, at the top, a beautiful circle with planets, stars and comets (below right). One of the six circles next to this scene (sixth light, below) shows how the signs of the zodiac form the next ring in the overall composition, while also combining with an angel to make a wonderful picture with painted borders and flowers around the rim, a device used around every circle to great effect.

Detail from sixth light, top of right hand lights

A pattern made of circles is always a favourite with me - as described in my last blog post. However, this window is full of wonder from the angels in the top tracery (below left) right down to the bottom, where you can find the famous pink giraffe (below right).

Detail from the top tracery, bottom of central lights

In the Cathedral cloister is a window by the artist Mark Cazalet that is etched, engraved and sandblasted on three sides of the clear glass panels that are made up as double glazed units. It’s hard to see the overall picture from the inside against the backdrop of the cathedral, and typically for a millennium window, the subject matter is varied. It includes depictions of people with some connection to the cathedral who led an inspired Christian life. The drawing and the details are amazing, there are so many different textures, marks and tones in the glass which you can see well when you look up through the panel tops to the sky. You can’t help thinking that the window needs a clearer backdrop (or a clearer design) to get a full appreciation of the beautiful drawings that are so skilfully applied to the glass.